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	<title>$3.60 &#187; fashion matters</title>
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		<title>This swast*ka ish is out of control</title>
		<link>http://www.mp285.com/2007/09/this-swastka-ish-is-out-of-control/</link>
		<comments>http://www.mp285.com/2007/09/this-swastka-ish-is-out-of-control/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 27 Sep 2007 05:14:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>marisa</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[fascism]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fashion matters]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pop snippets]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[randomness]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mp285.com/2007/this-swastka-ish-is-out-of-control/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[First the fashion chain Zara, now army barracks? It&#8217;s so hard not to be conspiratorial. Perhaps this is all prophesying the rise of an army of fascist fashionistas, who distract us with handbags and mesmerize us with falling hemlines as civilizations are razed in our name? Oh wait. Never mind. But seriously:]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://ap.google.com/article/ALeqM5i8o4u2vVJlLcEt_tFMtGnH_sYJ4w"><img src="http://www.foxnews.com/images/309916/1_61_navy_barracks.jpg" align="left" height="154" hspace="12" width="202" /></a>First the fashion chain <a href="http://www.bagsnob.com/2007/09/zara_swatsika_bag.html" target="_blank">Zara</a>, now army barracks? It&#8217;s so hard <em>not</em> to be conspiratorial. Perhaps this is all prophesying the rise of an army of fascist fashionistas, who distract us with handbags and mesmerize us with falling hemlines as civilizations are razed in our name?</p>
<p>Oh wait. Never mind.</p>
<p><span id="more-168"></span></p>
<p>But seriously:</p>
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		<title>SYTYCD Goes to War!</title>
		<link>http://www.mp285.com/2007/07/sytycd-goes-to-war/</link>
		<comments>http://www.mp285.com/2007/07/sytycd-goes-to-war/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 27 Jul 2007 15:40:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>marisa</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Dan Karaty]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Iraq]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[SYTYCD]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Wade Robson]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fashion matters]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mp285.com/2007/sytycd-goes-to-war/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Okay, kinda. Last night&#8217;s episode of So You Think You Can Dance (7.26) began with choreographer Mia Michaels apologizing for a jacket she had worn on the previous night&#8217;s episode. Apparently, it was a military jacket (USMC?), but with the insignias sewed on upside down. Mia claims that she had been given the jacket by [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://onlinecelebritygossips.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:X_YXK5hSo9FwXM:http://www.okinawa.usmc.mil/Public%2520Affairs%2520Info/Images%2520Complete/IMAGES/051221-coat.jpg" title="USMC jacket" alt="USMC jacket" align="left" height="118" hspace="12" width="82" /></a>Okay, kinda.</p>
<p>Last night&#8217;s episode of <em><strong>So You Think You Can Dance</strong> </em>(<a href="http://theorymyculture.wordpress.com/2007/07/26/so-you-think-you-can-dance-week-ix-726/">7.26</a>) began with choreographer Mia Michaels apologizing for a jacket she had worn on the previous night&#8217;s episode. Apparently, it was a military jacket (USMC?), but with the insignias sewed on upside down.</p>
<p style="text-align: center"><span id="more-153"></span></p>
<p><a href="http://onlinecelebritygossips.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Mia claims</a> that she had been given the jacket by a designer-friend, and <a href="http://www.tvsquad.com/2007/07/27/so-you-think-you-can-dance-week-6-results/" target="_blank">had no idea that it signified anything at all</a>. I don&#8217;t think there&#8217;s any reason not to believe her, but I <em>do</em> want to come back to this, especially because <strong><a href="http://apostropha.wordpress.com/2007/07/19/pop-culture-post-secret-cameron-dianazi-her-new-handbag/">Apostropha</a></strong> has an awesome post on <a href="http://apostropha.wordpress.com/2007/07/19/pop-culture-post-secret-cameron-dianazi-her-new-handbag/">a similar situation Cameron Diaz recently faced in Peru</a>.</p>
<p>But back to SYTYCD. One reason Mia&#8217;s jacket garnered so much attention is because it appeared in the same episode as Wade Robson&#8217;s solo choreography, which in the package preceding its first rendition (by Jamie), he explicitly refers to as anti-war. Or more specifically, he refers to it as &#8220;about peace,&#8221; which he stutters into &#8220;anti-war.&#8221;<img src="http://www.michaeljackson.ro/img/trial/martori/wade_robson.jpg" title="Wade Robson signs peace" alt="Wade Robson signs peace" align="right" height="139" hspace="3" vspace="6" width="95" /></p>
<p>And the stutter seemed appropriate, because he must know that while he might have gotten away with &#8220;peace,&#8221; a term that has been emptied of any relation to feeling and action, &#8220;anti-war&#8221; does still actually say something. Friend and SYTYCD colleague Dan Karaty, however, has already spoken out against Wade, using the sort of vague, awkwardly &#8220;diplomatic&#8221; cliches that have become epidemic in popular discourse. After pointing out that his own brother is a Marine, Karaty tells <a href="http://www.usmagazine.com/so_you_think_dance_controversy_july_25" target="_blank">USmagazine.com</a> that:</p>
<blockquote><p>“Everybody has the right to have an opinion,” he says. “Part of the reason our troops are [fighting] is that so we can all have our own opinion. We are given the freedom to do whatever we want conceptually and choreographically, which is a great thing. The producers of the show trust us,” he says, adding that he is unaware of a production policy of clearing routines and themes prior to air. “But,” he insists, “I don’t think So You Think You Can Dance is the right form to express political opinions.”</p></blockquote>
<p>Karaty can&#8217;t quite stay afloat in this sea of borrowed discourse, a discourse that has become one of my pet peeves. I generally accept the claim that American soldiers imagine themselves as fighting for American rights. But I find it disconcerting how this claim has become a way of blocking people from exercising that very right, which of course nullifies the claim itself&#8221; &#8220;we&#8217;re fighting for your right to speak. So shut up.&#8221;</p>
<p><img src="http://z.about.com/d/realitytv/1/5/Q/P/dankaraty.jpg" title="Dan Karaty" alt="Dan Karaty" align="left" height="177" hspace="12" vspace="6" width="115" />This is particularly sad coming from an artist, and Karaty&#8217;s self-contradiction reveals at least one of two things: he is pulled between being an artist and supporting the war, or he is pulled between being an artist and being a successful commodity. And, in today&#8217;s political climate, the latter term in each possibility is essentially equivalent to the other, in the sense that it doesn&#8217;t matter what Karaty actually thinks about the war. What matters is that he thinks it&#8217;s his duty to say nothing, to be a good cultural soldier&#8211; to never say anything that might jeopardize sponsorship (&#8220;The producers of the show trust us&#8221;).</p>
<p>Like many of his &#8220;hip-hop&#8221; routines, Karaty&#8217;s thoughts on the matter leave me feeling like I&#8217;ve been watching a little one trying to swim in the big kids&#8217; pool&#8211; with a kickboard.</p>
<p>Thank god there were some adults on the stage last night! I was happy that Nigel stood up for Robson&#8217;s routine, actually appealing to reason by questioning what it means for a society to be up in arms about the words featured in the piece (<a href="http://beckbeck.wordpress.com/2007/07/27/scary-stuff/">each dancer wore a shirt with a &#8220;peace-related&#8221; term written on it</a>: communication, understanding, etc.) The routine, Nigel pointed out, wasn&#8217;t anti-American or anti-troop, it was against troops being in Iraq.</p>
<p>And I must say; Nigel&#8217;s moment was a quick moment, but it was an important moment that was unfortunately rare for television. And I don&#8217;t quite mean this in an against the war way, but more because it was nice to hear anyone say anything&#8211; and mean it.</p>
<p>Ironically, the verse of the <a href="http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/stat?id=5ZLIOM*n9ZM&amp;offerid=78941&amp;type=3&amp;subid=0&amp;tmpid=1826&amp;RD_PARM1=http%253A%252F%252Fphobos.apple.com%252FWebObjects%252FMZStore.woa%252Fwa%252FviewAlbum%253Fi%253D163367055%2526id%253D163367050%2526s%253D143441%2526partnerId%253D30"><strong>John Mayer</strong> song  (&#8220;Waiting on the World to Change&#8221;)</a> that Robson chose?</p>
<p><em>it&#8217;s hard to beat the system<br />
when we&#8217;re standing at a distance<br />
so we keep waiting<br />
waiting on the world to change</em></p>
<p><em>now if we had the power<br />
to bring our neighbors home from war<br />
they would have never missed a Christmas<br />
no more ribbons on their door<br />
and when you trust your television<br />
what you get is what you got<br />
cause when they own the information, oh<br />
they can bend it all they want</em></p>
<p>Well, we better not wait too long, &#8217;cause it&#8217;ll all be over before we know it.</p>
<p>Oh, and I got <a href="http://www.waderobson.com/">this link</a> via <a href="http://bloggingsytycd.blogspot.com/2007/07/so-you-think-you-can-dance-top-10_26.html" target="_blank">Blogging SYTYCD</a>; it&#8217;s a note on the piece (on the &#8220;peace&#8221;?) <a href="http://www.waderobson.com/">on Wade Robson&#8217;s website</a>.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Miss Mexico&#8217;s&#8230;Harvest Gown?</title>
		<link>http://www.mp285.com/2007/05/miss-mexicosharvest-gown/</link>
		<comments>http://www.mp285.com/2007/05/miss-mexicosharvest-gown/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 25 May 2007 21:58:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>marisa</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Mexico]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Miss Mexico]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Miss Universe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Rosa Maria Ojeda]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fashion matters]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mp285.com/2007/miss-mexicosharvest-gown/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Last month, I posted on some of the controversy surrounding Miss Mexico&#8217;s choice for her Miss Universe parade of nations gown. As you might recall, some found her gown politically tone-deaf in its depiction of scenes from the Cristero War, crazy in its inclusion of a band of bullets as its main accessory, and simply [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img src="http://banderasnews.com/0705/images/bulletdress.jpg" style="width: 140px; height: 189px" alt="miss mexico's dress (Cristero War version)" align="left" hspace="12" /></a>Last month, I posted on <a href="http://mp285.com/2007/miss-mexicos-war-gown-or-fashion-matters-in-the-miss-universe/">some of the controversy surrounding Miss Mexico&#8217;s choice for her Miss Universe parade of nations gown.</a><a href="http://mp285.com/2007/miss-mexicos-war-gown-or-fashion-matters-in-the-miss-universe/"> </a>As you might recall, some found her gown politically tone-deaf in its depiction of scenes from the Cristero War, crazy in its inclusion of a band of bullets as its main accessory, and simply tiresome in its relative tackiness&#8211; especially during a time when various kinds of violences are <a href="http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/americas/6691267.stm" target="_blank">spiraling out of control across Mexico</a>. Now it seems that her dress has been changed. Since I&#8217;m not really into hanged martyrs, but totally into corn, I should take this change as positive, no?</p>
<p style="color: #ff0000; font-weight: bold">Let&#8217;s have a look at Miss Mexico, v. 2!</p>
<p><span id="more-85"></span><br />
<a href="http://banderasnews.com/0705/ent-missufashionshow.htm" target="_blank"><img src="http://banderasnews.com/0705/images/missufashionshow.jpg" align="right" height="264" hspace="6" width="195" /></a>As you can see, the new dress follows the original form, being cut from the same traditional <em>manta</em> and so on. Gone, however, is the band of bullets, replaced with a black lace shawl. Also gone are the scenes of civil war destruction, now replaced with &#8220;landscapes of corn and cactus fields and decorative elements from Indian cultures,&#8221; according to the <em><a href="http://www.chron.com/disp/story.mpl/ent/4811765.html" target="_blank">Houston Chronicle</a></em>.</p>
<p>I must admit that I am a little bit suspicious of this corn. I know: who could be suspicious of such a cute and important grain? (I strongly recommend the animated <a href="http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/corn/A_01.html" target="_blank">&#8220;what is corn and what&#8217;s its story&#8221;</a> tour at <a href="http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/corn/funplace/index.html" target="_blank"><strong><em>The Great Corn Adventure</em></strong></a>!) But I guess that I am suspicious because I find it hard to avoid interpreting the dress change as meaningful&#8211; if only because the original was so oversteeped in its attempts at meaningfulness. It seems to me that whoever ultimately made this decision was looking for a way to keep the original message by offering up an &#8220;alternative&#8221; that is only different on its surface.</p>
<p>One connection between the original dress and this new one is in the way the new dress shifts its scene from a time of conflict to one of <a href="http://dictionary.reference.com/wordoftheday/archive/2002/07/14.html" target="_blank">prelapsarian</a> innocence. Rather than displaying a moment when the Catholics lost political power, it shows a scene from before when such power became necessary&#8211; before there was a nation-state. And by offering a vision of meso-america before political subjecthood, before the establishment of the Mexican state that the previous dress implicitly critiqued, the dress ultimately skirts (ha!) the issue of its divisive politcs.</p>
<p>The irony, of course, is that immense violence transformed meso-america into the very Mexico represented by the dress. In this sense, the dress indeed fulfills <a href="http://www.chron.com/disp/story.mpl/ent/4811765.html" target="_blank">its mission to show the &#8220;nation&#8217;s culture and history,&#8221;</a> but the details, this time, are only revealed in its seams and folds.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Miss Mexico&#8217;s &#8216;War Gown,&#8217; or, Fashion Matters</title>
		<link>http://www.mp285.com/2007/04/miss-mexicos-war-gown-or-fashion-matters-in-the-miss-universe/</link>
		<comments>http://www.mp285.com/2007/04/miss-mexicos-war-gown-or-fashion-matters-in-the-miss-universe/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 28 Apr 2007 22:50:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>marisa</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Mexico]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Miss Mexico]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Miss Universe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Rosa Maria Ojeda]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[TV]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fashion matters]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[performing identity]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[politics]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mp285.com/2007/miss-mexicos-war-gown-or-fashion-matters-in-the-miss-universe/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Coincidentally, after my random in-class rant on nationalism and the Miss Universe contest, I came across this article at the BBC. It&#8217;s about Miss Mexico&#8217;s gown choice for this year&#8217;s Miss Universe pageant, which will be held May 28th in Mexico City. The gown was selected for Rosa Maria Ojeda Cuen from a field of [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p align="left"><a href="http://www.missuniverse.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://www.missuniverse.com/images/muo_umbrella_2006.jpg" alt="the misses" align="left" height="169" hspace="12" vspace="6" width="225" /></a>Coincidentally, after my random in-class rant on nationalism and the <a href="http://www.missuniverse.com/" target="_blank">Miss Universe</a> contest, I came across <a href="http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/americas/6571061.stm" target="_blank">this article at the BBC</a>. It&#8217;s about Miss Mexico&#8217;s gown choice for this year&#8217;s Miss Universe pageant, which will be held <a href="http://www.missuniverse.com/press/03.29.07.html" target="_blank">May 28th in Mexico City</a>. The gown was selected for <a href="http://www.missuniverse.com/delegates/2007/files/MX-interview.html" target="_blank">Rosa Maria Ojeda Cuen</a> from a field of thirty other dresses, and was admired because the selection committee “wanted a dress that made you think of Mexico.” Hector Terrones, who served on the selection committee,  apparently also explained to <em>La Jornada</em> that <span style="font-weight:bold;">“The design should grab people’s attention and have impact without giving too much information.”</span> But critics, like <em>La Jornada</em> columnist Jorge Camil, vehemently disagree on the dress&#8217; &#8216;message,&#8217; claiming that:</p>
<blockquote><p><img src="http://newsimg.bbc.co.uk/nol/shared/img/v3/start_quote_rb.gif" border="0" height="13" width="24" />It would be like Miss USA wearing a dress showing images of the Ku Klux Klan in the Deep South. [...] A beauty contest is very far from being the right<img src="http://newsimg.bbc.co.uk/nol/shared/img/v3/end_quote_rb.gif" align="right" border="0" height="13" vspace="0" width="23" /> place to vent political and religious ideologies.</p></blockquote>
<blockquote></blockquote>
<p><strong><font color="#ff3333">Oh my! Let&#8217;s have a look at this dress&#8230;</font></strong></p>
<p><span id="more-70"></span></p>
<p align="left"><img src="http://msnbcmedia2.msn.com/j/ap/6f9cfec0-d7aa-402c-b47c-e8b4ec1b8a01.widec.jpg" alt="miss mexico's dress" align="right" height="441" hspace="6" width="315" />According to <a href="http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/18160526/" target="_blank">msnbc</a>, this well-accessoried ensemble features a &#8220;billowing, hoop skirt adorned with sketches of Catholic rebels hanging from posts. Rosaries and scapulars hung from the bullet-studded, bandolier belt; a large crucifix necklace, black halter top and wide-brimmed sombrero completed the outfit.&#8221;</p>
<p align="left">(I really like it when ladies remember their hats. Bullets, however, are often that one thing too much that bogs down the look.)</p>
<p align="left"> The <a href="http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/18160526/" target="_blank">msnbc</a> and <a href="http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/americas/6571061.stm" target="_blank">BBC</a> articles each do a good job pointing out some of what is at stake in this choice for representing Mexico to the world. There is also an article in <a href="http://www.jornada.unam.mx/2007/04/17/index.php?section=espectaculos&amp;article=a10n1esp" target="_blank"><em>La Jornada</em></a>* that is particularly good at reading the dress as a signifier of contemporary Mexico&#8217;s political moment, which <strong><a href="http://girlpower2.wordpress.com/2007/04/25/abortion-now-legal-in-mexico-city/" target="_blank">Melissa has also pointed out to us to in her response to JL&#8217;s post</a></strong> on the new abortion laws in Mexico City.</p>
<p align="left">Further, as all of the articles point out, there is something troubling about this fetishization of the violent <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cristero_War" target="_blank">Cristero War</a>, which hinged on Catholic rebellion against <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cristero_War" target="_blank"><img src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/a/a9/Miguel_Pro.gif" style="width:169px;height:169px;" align="left" hspace="12" vspace="6" /></a>the secularization of the Mexican state. And for some, the images, which include Roman Catholic rebels hanging from posts and a man facing a firing squad (maybe <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cristero_War" target="_blank">Blessed Miguel Pro, SJ.</a>?) also have an uncomfortable resonance with the pervasive public violence brought on by the <a href="http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/americas/6563051.stm" target="_blank">escalating drug war in Mexico.</a></p>
<p align="left">Hey <strong><a href="http://princessculture.wordpress.com" target="_blank">Princess Propaganda</a></strong> and <strong><a href="http://princessproduction.wordpress.com" target="_blank">Princess Production</a></strong>, what do you think of this sticky uber-princess situation?</p>
<p align="left">[*By the way, the <em>Jornada</em> article is in Spanish though, since it is a newspaper, you might only need to dredge up your sixth-grade Spanish! I suggest taking a look. If you get stuck, feed the article's URL into <a href="http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/tr" target="_blank">Babel Fish.] </a></p>
<p align="left">&nbsp;</p>
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